Posts in Category: West of Here

West Of Here: Chasing The Perseids Across Big Bend National Park

A meteor during the Perseids meteor shower viewed from Big Bend National Park near the Burro Mesa pouroff on August 12, 2016 around 4 a.m. Heavy clouds, part of a storm system from Mexico, made viewing difficult. However, at about 2 a.m., the skies cleared and debris from the Swift-Tuttle comet soared into the earth’s atmosphere. ©2016 Robert W. Hart

A meteor during the Perseids meteor shower viewed from Big Bend National Park near the Burro Mesa pouroff on August 12, 2016 around 4 a.m. Heavy clouds, part of a storm system from Mexico, made viewing difficult. However, at about 2 a.m., the skies cleared and debris from the Swift-Tuttle comet soared into the earth’s atmosphere. ©2016 Robert W. Hart


I sped out to Big Bend National Park, a mere nine hours west, on Wednesday, Aug. 10, 2016, last week with two goals in mind. One: Photograph the Perseids Meteor shower in one of the darkest skies in North America and two: Photograph the desert storms that develop in and around the park in August. A pair of Mexican storm systems almost thwarted my meteorite plans by stalling directly over the park and surrounding area Thursday night. Fortunately, on Friday morning, the peak time for viewing the Perseids, the clouds cleared at about 2 a.m. and I was able to shoot till dawn.

Unfortunately, the wall of moisture-filled clouds up from Mexico threw a wrench in my plans for storm shooting but one does not despair when faced with the prospect of two full days working in BBNP. I made for Terlingua to stay at Villa Terlingua, the beautiful guesthouse owned by my friend Cynta De Narvaez. It’s my favorite place to stay when I’m not in a tent in the park. It’s in the ghost town but far enough away from the store and the Starlight to be quiet, even during the chili cookoffs. I shot the Perseids image with the Nikon D810 and an f/2.8 17-35mm lens at ISO 2000 and a 20-second exposure.

Villa Terlingua in Terlingua  Ghost Town: My favorite place to stay in the Big Bend.

Villa Terlingua in Terlingua Ghost Town: My favorite place to stay in the Big Bend.

West of Here: Santa Elena Canyon After Dark

Santa Elena Canyon on the Rio Bravo in Big Bend National Park is one of the park’s most popular spots. I shot this at 2 a.m., more or less, on December 30, 2015 in sub-freezing weather alongside my friend and fellow photographer Matt Larseingue on a photo/camping trip. ©2015 Robert W. Hart

Santa Elena Canyon on the Rio Bravo in Big Bend National Park is one of the park’s most popular spots. I shot this at 2 a.m., more or less, on December 30, 2015 in sub-freezing weather alongside my friend and fellow photographer Matt Larseingue on a photo/camping trip. ©2015 Robert W. Hart

West of Here: Twilight In Oil Patch

Inactive drilling rigs sit in an Odessa, Texas oil field service yard. Odessa sits squarely in the Permian Basin where, despite being an oil-rich region, drilling decreased by 60 percent in 2015. ©2015 Robert W. Hart

Inactive drilling rigs sit in an Odessa, Texas oil field service yard. Odessa sits squarely in the Permian Basin where, despite being an oil-rich region, drilling decreased by 60 percent in 2015.

West of Here: Chisos Mountains at Dawn

Chisos Dawn

Chisos Dawn

In mid-November I spent five days in the Chihuahuan desert at Villa de las Minas and this was the dawn view looking mostly east, southeast outside my adobe. Night temperatures were in the low to mid-40s which made porch sleeping mighty pleasant.

Daytime temps hit the low 80s, so day hikes in the national park were a breeze. For the first time, I saw Cattail Falls with water actually falling. The falls don’t run year round but there’d been sufficient recent rainfall and that allowed me to make the photo below.

Geophysicist Cedric Snyder at Cattail Falls in Big Bend National Park on November 16, 2014.

Geophysicist Cedric Snyder at Cattail Falls in Big Bend National Park on November 16, 2014.

West of Here: Terlingua Cemetery Redux

Hundreds of candles adorn the ancient graves on Dia De Los Muertos in the Terlingua Ghost Town cemetery on November 2, 2013.  ©2013 Robert W. Hart

Hundreds of candles adorn the ancient graves on Dia De Los Muertos in the Terlingua Ghost Town cemetery on November 2, 2013.
©2013 Robert W. Hart

West of Here: Playboy Marfa Is Still Erect

The Playboy Marfa art installation by American artist Richard Phillips on Highway 90 west of Marfa, Texas is scheduled to be removed soon because Texas authorities say it is unlicensed advertising. Now Prada Marfa, a famous art installation on the same stretch of highway, has been cited for the same violation and may be removed as well.  ©2013 Robert W. Hart

The Playboy Marfa art installation by American artist Richard Phillips on Highway 90 west of Marfa, Texas is scheduled to be removed soon because Texas authorities say it is unlicensed advertising. Now Prada Marfa, a famous art installation on the same stretch of highway, has been cited for the same violation and may be removed as well.
©2013 Robert W. Hart

The Prada Marfa art installation near Valentine, Texas.

The Prada Marfa art installation near Valentine, Texas.

My recent three-day pilgrimage to Terlingua took me past the Playboy Marfa installation which is much closer to Marfa than Prada Marfa. Prada Valentine would certainly be more accurate since it’s maybe a quarter-mile from the town. Back in July the Texas Highway Department gave the artist, Richard Phillips, 45 days to remove the structure but it’s still standing.

According to some Marfans Prada Marfa is art and Playboy Marfa is, well, something less.

Yeah, I love the headline too.

Celebrating Terlingua’s Dead

Terlingua Ghost Town cemetery, November 2, 2012.

Terlingua Ghost Town cemetery, November 2, 2012.

Dia De Los Muertos celebrant at the Terlingua, Texas cemetery on Nov. 2, 2012.

Dia De Los Muertos celebrant at the Terlingua, Texas cemetery on Nov. 2, 2012.

I’m returning to Terlingua this All Hallow’s Eve to document, this time on video, the annual Dia de Los Muertos ritual at the Terlingua cemetery. Despite the presence of a thousand or more CASI (Chili Appreciation Society International) celebrants, Terlingua is full of good folks who are best at minding their own business–and throwing a great party.

Me and my crew are staying at the Villa Terlingua guest house with hostess Cynta De Narvaez.

‘Fort Worth Weekly’ Picks Up My John Graves Story and Photo

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FW Weekly editor Gayle Reaves liked my John Graves blog well enough that she re-published it with another of my John Graves photos in the current (August 7-14) issue. I’m delighted that she thought enough of the tiny piece to publish it. Not a story, so much as a remembrance of my visits with John.

It was John’s words that put me on that river 30 years ago and will find me there again this October.

Goodbye to a Legend: Author John Graves

Author John Graves at his home, Hard Scrabble,  in Somervell County, near Glen Rose, Texas.

Author John Graves at his home, Hard Scrabble, in Somervell County, near Glen Rose, Texas.

On a cold, nasty wet day in February 1992 writer Bryan Woolley and I drove down to John Graves’ place on White Bluff Creek in Somervell County. We were both working for The Dallas Morning News and we were about to meet one of Bryan’s old friends and one of my literary heroes.

When we drove through the gate at Hard Scrabble we were greeted by John’s sheepdog Hodge, who was 10 and a bit stove-up in the hindquarters. He checked us out when we stepped out of my Bronco and decided that we were neither coyotes nor skunks, merely journalists, so we were allowed to pass.

John and his wife Jane met us on the porch of their home and invited us inside where it was warm and there was coffee.

I spent the next few hours listening to John and Bryan talk literature and books. While they talked I shot.

When John and I talked it was mostly about rivers and fly fishing and books about rivers and fly fishing. He was friends with Nick Lyons and at that time, ’92, he and Jane were still making yearly trips down to Florida to fish for tarpon with Lyons and a batch of other literary luminaries.

As the day and our time with John and Jane waned, I asked if I could come back the following weekend to photograph John fishing on White Bluff Creek, the small limestone stream that runs through Hardscrabble. He said, “Absolutely.”

A few days later I returned, made my photos and then spent some time fishing John’s 2-weight rod for perch in John’s creek.

I have, for the past 30 years, made dozens of canoe trips down John’s stretch of the Brazos. Sometimes with writer friends of my own and sometimes alone.

There, alone, thigh-deep in John’s river, I am my most serene.

West of Here: Texas Thunderstorms and Tornado Warnings

Montague, Texas was under a tornado warning when I arrived shortly before 7 p.m., today, May 20. This array of windmills is owned by Custom Water Company LLC. ©2013 Robert W. Hart

Montague, Texas was under a tornado warning when I arrived shortly before 7 p.m., today, May 20. This array of windmills is owned by Custom Water Company LLC. ©2013 Robert W. Hart

Dennis Mann, left, and his wife Deborah stand outside their storm cellar with neighbor Mathew Tettleton moments after a tornado warning ended on Monday May 20, 2013, in Montague, Texas. When I asked Deborah if they had gone to the cellar she laughed and said, "I did, but Dennis stayed out here to make sure his truck didn't blow away."  ©2013 Robert W. Hart

Dennis Mann, left, and his wife Deborah stand outside their storm cellar with neighbor Mathew Tettleton moments after tornado warning ended on Monday May 20, 2013, in Montague, Texas. When I asked Deborah if they had gone to the cellar she laughed and said, “I did, but Dennis stayed out here to make sure his truck didn’t blow away.”
©2013 Robert W. Hart

Enroute to Montague I stopped in Bowie to photograph the downtown area. Like Montague, Bowie too was under a tornado warning. ©2013 Robert W. Hart

Enroute to Montague I stopped in Bowie to photograph the downtown area. Like Montague, Bowie too was under a tornado warning. ©2013 Robert W. Hart

Mammatus clouds northwest of Fort Worth, Texas on 5/20/2013 5:27 PM.  ©2013 Robert W. Hart

Mammatus clouds northwest of Fort Worth, Texas on 5/20/2013 5:27 PM.
©2013 Robert W. Hart